(19) "It's cold out there" said the radio speaker, and it is!

You've got no point for guessing the film, it is only part of the beginning of the film (made in 1993).

Anyway, it is cold nowadays over here, and it is time for nice comfort food in the evening. In France, one of the best loved winter dishes is Raclette on potatoes with some ham or cured meat.

Induction into the Guild Internationale des Fromagers (2018)

This is rather a modern customs, the original Raclette was Swiss, and it is said that a worker called Leon had the idea to melt the local cheese on his bread for lunch. The first mention of this is dated 1574, however, this was in 1874 that the cheese was called Raclette, from the French racler, scrapping.

There is a Swiss Raclette, the Raclette du Valais, and it was recognised officially in 2007 with AOC status.

Then, there are 3 Raclette in France, one generic, one with a Label Rouge called "Fromage a Raclette", and a PGI recognised product called "Raclette de Savoie".

Swiss Raclette

Production Area

The area of production for the Raclette du Valais, all versions, is the whole of the Canton of Valais in the country of Switzerland. It is located in the south on the west, starting the Leman Lake and making an inverted crescent finishing at the rising of the Rhône river, and follows the border with France and then Italy. As with most of Switzerland, it is mountainous with the Rhône valley running from the east to the west, widening slightly in the process; a third way down it doubles in width and just before the French border it follows the bend of the river and finishes at Leman Lake. The mountain range on the south is part of the Pennine Alps and on the north side the Bernese Alps, many valleys are on either side of the river and they are wider on the south. The climate is continental with altitude influence, meaning rigorous winters with some beautiful sunny days and very changing weather on the tops, summer is drier in the valleys with many amounts of rain confined to the tops and banks and snow present on many parts. Rainfall is good throughout the year and the water stocked during winter is available in summer when the snow melt. Flora is varied and the grass is of high quality specially in altitude when available.

Production Method

The herd of cows producing milk for the cheese have to be grazing or fed non-fermented grass at least 75% originating from the area of production, with possible exceptions for calf when separated. All regulation concerning the well-being of the animals should be respected. The milk is used raw within 24 hours of obtention with possibility to keep it below 8oc, and 13oc when in alpage, within 2 hours of milking, and up to 2 can be combined for delivery once a day to the dairy. The milk can not be altered in any way except for control of the fat content within specific criteria. The milk is poured into a copper vat, with 5000 litres maximum capacity, and lactic ferments specifically developed and selected these last few years are added to mature the milk. It is brought up to 32oc and after 30 to 60 minutes traditional veal rennet is added for coagulation done at a temperature of between 30 to 33oc. Once the curd has set it is then cut down to the appropriate size of a grain, and fresh water, at proportion of 10 to 15% of the volume of milk used, is added and the mix is kneaded while warmed up to between 36 to 45oc. It is not required to add fresh water when the cheese is done in alpage, however it is useful for pH control. After a short rest, the curds are pre-pressed in the vat before moulding is carried out. When the moulds are full, pressing is done depending on the type of press used as for time and pressure, and the cheese will be turned twice during this stage with insertion of an identification casein mark on first turning and heel marking done in the last. The total amount of time should be at least 4 hours for pressing and draining with the cheese reaching a pH of 5, with allowance of 0.2, at the end. Salting is done either by direct application of dry salt either by immersion into a bath of brine for 22 to 24 hours under specific conditions. When ready the cheese is then transferred to the maturing cellar, 7 to 14oc and 88 to 96% relative humidity or 4 to 14 and 70 to 80% in case of Raclette du Valais a Rebibes, for a minimum of 3 months or only 2 when made for being sold sliced and 12 months for the Rebibes variety. During maturing the cheeses stay on red spruce wood planks, cleaned at least every new lot, and it is recommended to turn and softly brush the cheeses once every day for the first ten days, three times a week afterwards up to the thirtieth day and twice thereafter. The cheeses are graded upon specific criteria before allowed for commercialisation and receiving the branding. For Raclette du Valais a Rebibes the cheeses at 3 to 4 months of maturation are immersed in water, 22 to 25oc, for 25 to 30 minutes with the rind partially removed afterwards by mechanical or manual brushing. Then after 12 hours drying, the cheeses are brushed with a mixture of 2/3 vegetal oil and 1/3 aromatised vinegar and dried before maturation is resumed at the cheeses are stacked vertically with continuous monitoring of the rind afterwards; the cheeses are checked for conformity at least from the tenth month before commercialisation is allowed form the twelfth. It is mostly sold as chips afterwards and enjoyed in social occasions.

Taste

This medium large round is typical of a raclette with its supple paste and lactic aroma and satisfying feel, however, the Rebibes version makes it unique as it can be aged to the point that it is enjoyed crapped in ribbon, either as aperitif or on canapes either as a more potent cheese with some charcuterie and part of a meal or case-croute. The flavour and consistency are from fresh dairy and buttery to more floral with a hint of nuttiness, and supple easy to cut to hard and brittle with some vegetal and fruity notes.

Safe keeping

To be consumed within a week, wrap in cheese paper and then in cling film, and keep in refrigerator; for all versions.

Statistics

1917 tonnes in 2018, 1928 tonnes in 2019, in early 2020 there was: 24 dairies (including 1 farm), 49 alpage dairies, and 4 specialist maturers accredited by the interprofessional organisation of the Raclette du Valais; furthermore, each parcel can bear its name on the rind.

Fromage a Raclette Label Rouge

History

Label Rouge label was created tentatively on August 5th, 1960, and then defined on January 13th, 1965 with the chicken of Les Landes obtaining the first recognition. This was in the context that after the first world war, and with the opening of worldwide markets, producers were starting to ask for official protection and definition with the goal to enhance their specific products. In 1935 the INAO was charged to look into the wine production and to define legally the criteria for each appellation. It took a very long time for dairy products to be looked into and the Label Rouge plugged a gap that started the inclusion of all the many products that are now part of the European system of recognition. The other side of the coin is that there are many obligations linked to it and with modern expediency many producers decided some decades ago to respect tradition without being strict about it, thus saving some money in the process. Obviously, this means as well that nowadays the rare product still clinging to this elitist label can charge more money and show its lineage. Raclette, or Fromage a Raclette, gained Label Rouge status in 2004.

Production Area

The area of production of Raclette, or Fromage a Raclette Label Rouge, is limited to the territory of the République Française with many restrictions and obligations concerning the milk production and the well-being of the animals.

Production Method

The cows have to be from a certified Red Label farm following good farming practice with traceability assured. Milking has to be done following current legislations and must be collected every four milking or 48 hours maximum, it should be stocked at a positive temperature of up to 6oc. It should conform to strict analysis and can reach 10oc at the dairy arrival, where it can be subjected to centrifugation, microfiltration, ultrafiltration, or mixing. The milk should be pasteurised within 18 hours of the first collection and only natural ingredients are allowed for maturation like lactic ferments and maturing agents, which should be carried out at between 7 and 12oc for 6 to 24 hours. It is then poured into the vat and brought up to between 28 and 35oc before traditional veal rennet is added for coagulation, the precise timing is left to the preference of each cheesemaker as long as the end product conform to specifications. This is followed by cutting of the curd mass and moulding with the same principle applied; a casein plaque is inserted on the rind identifying each round individually. The cheese is then pressed in the mould for at least 45 minutes and up to 2 hours, followed by salting in a bath of brine, 10 to 15oc, for up to 36 hours. Once ready the cheese is then transferred to the maturing cellar, 7 to 14oc and 82 to 98% relative humidity, for a minimum of 10 weeks on spruce wood. During maturing each round is cared for twice a week for the first 2 weeks and then once every week, with possibility to have extra care done if needed; each care can be one wash with turning, one turning only, or treated with morge. Each wheel is checked for conformity and every step of the cheesemaking process is monitored and recorded with traceability in mind. Commercialisation is strictly controlled and regulated as per portioning or whole round.

Taste

Originally made as a medium-large round, it is as well commercialised as a parallelepiped for ease of cutting or portioning. The rind is only just moist without being sticky and smelly and can show sone sign of growth depending on aging and safe keeping with a hint of dairy and nutty aroma. It is very easy to cut and reveals a very smooth supple paste very satisfying when tasted with a buttery creamy taste with a hint of herbal characteristics and some nuttiness present, it feels almost sweet and the aftertaste is short with almost a touch of umami.

Safe keeping

To be consumed within a week, wrap in cheese paper and then in cling film, and keep in refrigerator.

Statistics

551695Km2 production area, 2 cheese producers, 81 milk producers accredited in early 2020.

Raclette de Savoie (PGI)

History

Cheeses made in the Alps were known by the Romans, they were many, they were enjoyed, they were respected. It was in the middle-ages that the people of the area started to enjoy their summer extra production as a melted cheese done by the fire and part of the meal. Then it was in the beginning of the twentieth century that the name of Raclette started to be used as it became more commercial this was used to describe the way the cheese was enjoyed by scrapping, racler in French, the melted cheese on a dish of vegetables and meat. From the 1950’s and 1960’s alpine sports became more widely appreciated, in turn bringing more people to the area in winter for the sports, and then the electric grill started to appear and it took off in larger town for home use. Since the end of the 1970’s the technology of the cheese was looked into in order to produce a cheese that always melt correctly, and with a larger production the quality of the product became an important factor. The quality and history make this cheese, combined with the terroir, a specific product that was recognised by PGI label in 2017.

Area of Production

The area of production of Raclette de Savoie is composed of the 2 departments of Savoie (73) and Haute-Savoie (74) with some communes in the departments of Ain and Isère looking towards the traditional area of Savoie; 27 in Ain (01) and 5 in Isère (38). This is proper mountain area, with the Mont Blanc included within and reaching 4808m, most of it is comprised between 200 and 2500 metres of altitude with valleys of varying depth and width. The climate is continental with altitude influence, meaning long and harsh winters and hot summers; however, rainfall is mostly very good with the two deep valleys of the Maurienne and Tarentaise less favoured. Overall, it is a good place for high quality grass production three-quarters of the year and large enough to grow subsistence food for the winter and supplementary diet.

Production Method

The herd of cows producing milk for this cheese must be composed of at least 75% Abondance, Montbéliarde, or Tarentaise breed, and it is recommended to bring up these in view to reinforce the typicity and quality of the product. Grass feed must be given to the animal for at least 150 days a year, with specific supplements authorised, and represent at least half of the diet and be from the area of production. Milking should occur at least once a day; milk should be collected or delivered at least once a day; milk waiting to be collected should be kept at a maximum of 8oc. The milk is transported to the dairy, or the local within the farm used as, in respect of all current legislations and is then poured into the vat where lactic ferments is added within 36 hours of reception, or 48 hours if kept at below 4oc, and the milk is brought up to between 32 and 36oc. When farm-produced, the milk can be matured either for at least 4 hours at 8 to 16oc either for 30 to 90 minutes at between 30 and 35oc, with these two methods combined the last stage should take at least 20 minutes. The milk can be thermised or skimmed and salt can be added in the vat at first, any other manipulation is strictly forbidden. When ready, the traditional animal rennet is added for coagulation. The resulting curd mass is then cut down to the size of grains and kneaded for 20 to 60 minutes, while doing so with clear water added at the end to the mix and the temperature can be raised up to 40oc. When the correct acidification level is reached, the curd is gathered and put into a mould with a specific casein mark inserted on the outside, green for farm-produced and red for dairy, and then it is pressed for up to 5 hours. Salting is done by immersion into a bath of brine under controlled conditions. When ready the cheese is transferred to the maturing cellar, 8 to 13oc with high humidity level, where it will stay for a minimum of 8 weeks on wood planks with monitoring of the rind helped by brushing. There is a possibility of “report”, meaning taking a cheese not ready for commercialisation during any stage of maturation, and then keeping it at below 0oc for up to 10 months respecting traceability, and then the cheese will be made ready to finish maturation in a normal way. Each cheese is then checked for conformity visually, and by batch at least for the taste, texture, and analysis, before commercialisation.

Taste

This is a medium-large round with a slightly elastic paste that melt without releasing oil. This cheese can be kept for a good amount of time respecting temperature at all time safely without any bad effect on the taste, only the rind will then develop some mould and can be washed and brushed before use or simply taken out. The aroma is lactic with a hint of nuttiness and the taste is mild and creamy with a combination of herbal and nutty characteristics for the best products. It is very satisfying and best shared with family and friends.

Safe keeping

To be consumed within a week, wrap in cheese paper and then in cling film, and keep in refrigerator.

Statistics

26 producers registered to the consortium in 2020.

There are more Raclette, as said earlier, and some of them are of very high quality being made in mountainous area exclusively.

And by the way, the film was Groundhog Day.

Whatever you choose, remember, give life to your taste buds, and above all, enjoy real cheese.