(22) T’is the season of a few British cheeses.

Due to the January blues, please read next post you will be edified!, I thought that I would talk about a few British cheeses.

Entrance to the British Cheese Festival (2008)

First of all, I will look at a few cheeses that have been recognised under the EU PDO/ PGI/ TSG scheme of quality labels. As will be evident, some have used the scheme to promote their own products without being traditional or with a real history with the benediction of the UK government at the time. You will be able to find information as I gathered it at the end of this post.

Then we can talk about some other Famous English cheeses.

First, the case of the most famous and most sold cheese in the world, Cheddar. It was recognised that due to its history the normal name is used to describe diverse products with only a general idea behind. Therefore, the traditional makers of Cheddar chose to name their product “West Country Farmhouse Cheddar”. The benefit of the name is that it describes well the product, it is traditional and is made in the west of the original country including the village of Cheddar.

The other side of the coin is that many kinds of cheeses are called Cheddar. The quality is not assured and the association with the specific name is detrimental to the quality of the traditional product. Furthermore, Cheddar as such can be made anywhere in the world and with any kind of milk; this is still detrimental to the traditional product. The quality of West Country Farmhouse Cheddar is undeniable and more should be done to its image. The taste is deep and complex for most of them, even if there is still a wide range of flavours with the traditional product.

Second, obviously, the other well sold cheese of the British Isles, Stilton. There had been some trouble in the 1980’s and progressively the producers decided to switch to pasteurised milk. Then, with the creation of the European scheme, the association made it a requirement for the milk to be pasteurised for the cheese to bear the name of Stilton.

However, to get a higher quality and a more traditional product, Stichelton was created in 2006 and their maker tried to argue with the association, but in vain. So, we have a traditional blue English cheese not name Stilton with a high quality of production and respecting the history of the original, and then we have a few association members making a large quantity of pasteurised cheese in a safe undisturbed way and good profit.

Nonetheless, the market within the British Isles is varied and high-quality products are still made in a good number. Their availability is not assured, depending on when they make cheese and whether they are artisanal or farm-produced, and some even take holidays ceasing all production.

There is a good variety of products, what I regret more is the general cheese sold in supermarkets that is made from poor quality milk, and even sometimes from single line production units that names their product depending on acidity or colour and additive.

Bonchester

History

Created between 1980 and 1981 with the help of the West of Scotland Agricultural College and based on the Camembert method, it was in 1982 that production started, with a new dairy built in 1987. It was part of the first wave of cheeses recognised as PDO on June 21st, 1996. Made regularly from April to December, it was only rarely available during winter. Due to new regulations and associated economic pressures, this cheese has not been made since 1998 (since this was the easiest way to fight and lose).

Production area

The lowlands hills of the Scottish Borders area enjoy a stable climatic condition with a variation of temperature between 3 and 16 degrees on average with good rainfall, the soil being conducive of rich pastures with good mix of grass, herbs and flowers which is found in the hay used to nourish the Jersey cows during winter. Winter can be harsh but early spring and mild summer and autumn compensate largely for it.

Production method

Made from the mixed of evening (brought back to 32oc after being refrigerated) and morning (just after obtention) untreated milking of Jersey Cows with the addition of starters after which the milk is left for 90 minutes into aluminium basins at 25 to 30oc. Rennet is added and stirred into the mix, and after another 60 minutes the obtained curds are cut but left for another 30 minutes and then moulded. After 3 hours the cheeses are turned but left in open-top mould, and after another 3 hours turned again. The following morning the unmoulded cheeses are put unto wire trays and immersed in brine at 13oc for 20 or 40 minutes depending on size, then left to drain and turned and left in the drying room (4 days at 13oc) being turned daily. Maturing takes another 6 or 12 days at 11oc after which wrapping takes place.

Taste, look, and flavour

Taste is very similar to Camembert but with a richer taste more floral (not tasted).

Statistics

Not produced since 1998.

Teviotdale

History

Created in 1983, it was in 1984 that production started, with a new dairy built in 1987. It was part of the second wave of cheeses recognised as PGI on January 21st, 1998. The initial idea was to have a cheese four size the one of Bonchester and hard, keeping well and longer without being runny. Due to new regulations and associated economic pressures, this cheese has not been made since 1998 (since this was the easiest way to fight and lose). I would say that I find the sorry situation of the farm was worsen by the fact that they were encouraged to ask Protected status for their cheeses whereas the history was non-existent, the commercial side feeble, and many more traditional products were ignored because they were not willing to be incorporated within a European institution. Brexit revealed the true nature of the mind of the majority (?) of British people. However, their food culture has been imported, however they wish not to look at it… this is a shame, but it is what it is. Furthermore, the other European recognised cheeses have been asked to amplify their definition and urged to be more traditional in nature, to conform more with the idea being the whole scheme.

Production area

The area of production of Teviotdale is officially limited at 90 Km in a full circle around the summit of Peel Fell in the middle of the Cheviot Hills. The lowlands hills of the Scottish Borders area enjoy a stable climatic condition with a variation of temperature between 3 and 16 degrees on average with good rainfall, the soil being conducive of rich pastures with good mix of grass, herbs and flowers which is found in the hay used to nourish the Jersey cows during winter. Winter can be harsh but early spring and mild summer and autumn compensate largely for it. For new production to start the new enterprise would have to be within the area as defined above, respect the specifications, and maybe find an agreement with the old producer.

Production method

The milk is produced by Jersey cows within the area of production, well at the farm really. The morning milk is poured into the vat and the evening milk, refrigerated from the preceding evening, is mixed and then brought up to a temperature of 32oc and lactic starters are added for effect. This is done for one and a half hour at 30 to 25oc, the temperature is not maintained during maturation. Once ready rennet is added for coagulation to be achieved within the hour, and then the resulting curd is then cut down to the size of grains and then left to rest and settle for half an hour. The mix is poured into well-perforated moulds, and once filled a top is inserted and they are left to drain for 3 hours. At the end of that time the tops are removed, and the cheeses turned in the moulds and left to drain further for another 3 hours. Another turn is then done with the same time reference. And then once unmoulded, 4 cheeses are placed into larger moulds with plastic matting and turned one hour later. They will stay overnight in the moulding room at 25oc and then turned in the morning with the matting removed. They are then pressed for 24 hours with turning in the mould after 12 hours. The cheeses are then unmoulded and salted by immersion into a bath of brine for 9 hours at 13oc. They are then pre-matured for 4 days at 13oc with daily turning and then transferred to the maturing cellar, 11oc, where they remain for 15 days with daily turnings. They are checked for conformity and wrapped, individually boxed, and kept at 4oc before dispatch.

Taste, look, and flavour

This tall, smallish tome is white and once cut reveals a yellow paste hard of consistency. The aroma is light and lactic, the taste was a touch salty and with a touch of sourness, lactic; however, this do not exist anymore therefore the point is moot.

Statistics

Not produced since 1998.

Dovedale

History

Thought of in 1990 by the workforce of the Hartington Dairy after it was going to close, it was a way to save the production of blue cheese at this historic site. It had been producing Stilton since around 1870 and was on the point of closure. With the beginning of the European labels of quality policy in 1993, the staff of the dairy managed to gain PDO status in 1996, having convinced the ministerial authorities for support. However, the company ceased trading on May19th, 2015.

Production area

The described geographical area of production for this cheese is of 50 miles from Dovedale. However, the milk usually is from Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, and Staffordshire.

Production method

The milk is collected and transported to the dairy. It is then pasteurised, warmed up to body temperature and then starter cultures are added with penicillium Roqueforti. Rennet is used for coagulation. Cutting of the curds is done while kneaded, and then the whey is evacuated before moulding into perforated moulds. The cheese is turned many times until drainage is complete, and then it is salting by immersion in a bath of brine. After this it is transferred to the drying area before piercing is mechanically done. The cheese is then transferred to the maturing cellar, cool and humid, where the cheese is brushed with a moist concoction. It is then graded, and the approved ones will be made ready for dispatch.

Taste, look, and flavour

The round of this cheese had an interesting look with varied colours, notably pink and blue-grey. The veins of blue mould were rather straight, and the smell was of cream and mushroom, or more like damp cellar. Unfortunately, the cheese used to be under-matured, like many in this area (quote me), and the taste was rather soft and slightly acidic with a touch of piquant…

Safe keeping

To be consumed within the week when cut, wrap in foil or cling film and keep in refrigerator.

Statistics

Out of production since 2015.

And remember, as always, give life to your taste buds, and above all, enjoy real cheese.