(34) Redykolka, the other Polish bijoux.

This is the third Polish cheese of my serie to commemorate the democratic republic of Poland and its generous inhabitants.

They believe in democracy, in the possibility to express their view without sanction, and to elect freely their representatives. This do not mean that they are not manipulated as well, but they are aware of the risks and correct their vision with lively debates and true openness. They are not coerced, they are tempted, they are free to decide by themselves and are allowed to make make mistakes and rectify them if necessary. They have freedom, they have democracy.

Somewhere, but still not Poland, sorry!

Redykolka is very similar and sometimes confused with Oscypek. However, I will let you judge the merits of both based on my usual description method as found below. Please do not hesitate to visit the website for more information about cheese in general, and some in particular.

History

Cheeses from the general area of the Tatras mountains, part of the Carpathians, were known succinctly to the Romans. However, the style of the Redykolka cheese is from Wallacian people who originated from north of the Ottoman Empire, around actual Bucharest and west of it. They moved north and kept on keeping sheep, bringing them to mountain pastures and living in huts and then bringing them down to winter pastures.

The name Redykolka is based on redyk which denote the practise just described. The first record of the cheese dates from 1416 when Dawid Woloch was granted the right to found the village of Ochotnica, in the Gorce Mountains, when it was included in the charter.

Furthermore, the name is derived from the fact that it was given free when a ceremony was held on the return of the sheep, and then it became used, specially when made as animals, for weddings and special events. This originated from the Polish region called podhale at the foot of the Tatras Mountain, and even with all the political disturbances of the many centuries that passed it kept mainly to this area only just growing with some population movement slightly more inland east and north.

In 1773 the cheese was fully described in an official document, and in 1858 it was mentioned at the same time as its cousin “Oscypek”. The same customs have prevailed up modern times with mentions in 1960, 1980, and many more before and in between; it is a must have for visitors and tourists nowadays. It seems from many reports that the practice of smoking the cheese is quite recent, it was often given in pairs to children and most particularly to very young unattached women. It gained PDO status in 2009.

Area of production

The area of production of Redykolka is at the base of the Tatras Mountains in the south east central part of the border of the country of Poland with Slovakia. It is made up of 32 municipalities and 2 in parts, making a continuous and homogenous area. It is a small southerly part of the two Provinces of Lesser-Poland and Silesia.

It is a mountainous area at the top northern part of the Carpathian mountain range, the eastern part of what can be considered the eastern Alps. The area is composed of forest and high pasture lands with the lower parts made up of upland meadows with specific abundant flora. It is a good area for animal tending during the summer months, but this is high on manual labour. The climate is continental with very harsh winter and frequent snow, translating in good weather for summer.

Method of production

The milk for this cheese must come from ewes of the Polska Owca Gorska, Polish Mountain Sheep, breed with up to 40% of cows’ of Polska Krowa Czerwona, Polish Red Cow, breed staying and fed within the area of production. Production must take place in log huts located on mountain slopes where the animals are grazing. Once the milk is obtained it is kept in a cold room where it matures, and its acidity level rises. Fresh milk is mixed with soured milk in a copper kettle, know as “kotlik” or “kotlicek”. The milk is poured into a traditional barrel, called “puciera” and rennet is added for coagulation.

Once the curd has set, it is cut down to the desired size with traditional tools, like a “ferula”, a wooden spatula with wires in the middle. Half of the whey is removed, and the grains of curds are pressed and then are worked on by hand pounding, with a ball formed at the end of this process and then plunged into whey. Whey ready, the balls are then moulded into specially designed moulds of the desired shape, heart is very popular, as well as bird, lamb, deer, spindle which can be well decorated, or any other traditional shape.

Once formed the cheese is then soaked in brine for up to 24 hours, followed by a drying out period of 12 to 24 hours. The cheese is then matured for a week or could be smoked for 3 to 7 days, by cold smoking in the traditional roof-space of the shepherd’s hut, on the wall or by the hearth. For commercialisation it should be checked for conformity, by batch.

Look, feel, and taste

The look of this cheese is special, it is usually looking like a heart, an animal, or a spindle, but may be made looking like another traditional form. Being smoked the cheese is more or less deep yellow coloured on the outside with a whitish inside and a firm texture. The aroma is a definite smoky scent with a touch of dairy and a woody character. The taste is strong on the outside due to the smoke having impregnated the cheese, but the character of the cheese is salty and delicate with flavours of the grass and wild flora of the area. The aftertaste is complex with nutty flavours and a touch of acidity, you can taste the quality.

Safe keeping

To be consumed within the week when cut, wrap tightly in cheese paper or cling film and keep in refrigerator.

And remember, give life to your taste buds, and above all, enjoy real cheese.